What do the French think about Pune?
Well, we might not have the Eiffel Tower or French bakeries at every corner, but Pune’s historic old city, yummy Maharashtrian fare, friendly locals and cool hangout places sure help French expats feel at home. In conversation with the French community in Pune on their connection with the city.
Bénédicte Le Bris, Former cultural co-ordinator at Alliance Française de Pune
- First impression of Pune?
Nine years ago, I got off the plane at the old Mumbai airport. It was 5 am in the morning, and it felt like someone had opened the door of an oven. I took a bus to Pune. My first week here was difficult, the food was spicy and I got stared at a lot. But now, I just laugh. Now, when I step out of the Paris airport, I feel very cold.
- Something you like most about the city?
People here are really nice and kind. Also maybe because I am a foreigner, they think I’m important. Even after four years here, I encounter people who say ‘Welcome to India’. In France, nobody would say “Welcome to France.”
- Something that you find very funny here?
Once, I went to a shop to buy a French flag. The guy didn’t understand me, so he brought out a book of flags, and I pointed it out to him. He said, ‘But that is France flag, not French flag.” I told him it’s the same thing, but he looked at me as though I was completely stupid, haha! Even though English is neither of our maternal languages, eventually we managed to understand each other.
- Challenges that you’ve faced here?
I went to the RTO to get a driver’s license. Instead of a visa, I had a PIO card (like a small Indian passport issued by the Indian government), but nobody there knew about it, even the director. I didn’t want to go through an agent because I had all my documents in place. But it was a hassle. I believe the administration system should be better.
- A stereotype about India that was proved wrong?
Except for the fact that cows are considered sacred, I had no idea about India’s culture. I don’t know if that’s the ideal way to travel, and maybe I would’ve fared better knowing about some do’s and don’ts, but everything was a discovery for me.
- Favourite food in Pune?
Palak paneer, South Indian food that is less spicy, and homemade Maharashtrian food.
- Favourite place to hang out in Pune?
I love parks, particularly Osho. Also, the architecture in Deccan is really unique. I also like going to the old city, especially Mandai, but early in the morning.
- Something you miss about France here?
Public transport and French food (since it is less spicy and I also get more gluten-free options).
Josselin Azorin-Lara, Art director/Creative head/Co-founder at Minte.co
- First impression of Pune?
There are five-star hotels here, but then there are slums right outside it, and some of the employees also live there. It was a cultural shock. Nowadays, we also see refugee camps in France, and it’s very upsetting to see how people live there.
- Something you like most about the city?
The business environment here is very good, albeit with a few complications. There are a lot of things here that function very well. For instance, there are mobile applications for everything, from taxis to food to grocery shopping. But when your mobile runs out of battery, that’s when you are in deep shit.
- Something that you find very funny here?
People are always ready with an excuse for not having done their work. But instead of losing my temper, I find humour in the situation. Also, people have a way of getting what they want. If they build an illegal kiosk on the road, they’ll slip a few notes to the policeman and get away with it. Something new happens here everyday.
- Challenges that you’ve faced here?
Demonetisation. Things took longer than expected to normalise too. One day, I was in the supermarket with my kids. I had no cash on me. So I had to go to Starbucks to charge my phone to order an Ola cab. Out here, you just got to do some jugaad (hack).
- A stereotype about India that was proved wrong?
Stereotypes are essentially stereotypes because there is some truth to them. Apart from that, I think nationalism here really shocks me. Though I am foreigner and it is not up to me to judge, but nationalism anywhere in the world is a disease for civilization.
- Favourite food in Pune?
Pani puri, butter chicken and jeera rice. But I don’t like people who eat spicy food that they cannot tolerate and then make trips to the toilet. Oh, and by the way, I make amazing pohe.
- Favourite place to hang out in Pune?
La Bouchée D’Or in Pune, because I can eat French bread everyday, just like in France.
- Something you miss about France here?
Family and friends, without a doubt.
Cassandra Virapin, Former assistant to cultural co-ordinator at Alliance Française de Pune
- First impression of Pune?
I was surprised that in India, you could also live in a quiet neighbourhood with a garden and a playground, because when I first landed in Mumbai, it was a different picture. For me, Pune is a countryside with the inconveniences of a city, haha!
- Something you like most about the city?
Punekars smile a lot. French don’t smile at you that much. When you are lost, people here are really kind and explain the directions carefully to you.
- Something that you find very funny here?
Rickshaw drivers and the way they refuse a ride, with a poker face. I know I don’t look very French, but there was a rickshaw driver who almost died of laughter when I told him I was not Indian.
- Challenges that you’ve faced here?
The lack of good public transport. Rickshaw drivers sometimes charge Rs. 10-20 extra, and since I don’t know the roads, I am dependent on them.
- A stereotype about India that was proved wrong?
Not all women here wear saris. I thought women here would be traditional and timid, but not at all. They are like the French. They are ambitious about their career, they like being sexy, people have relationships before marriage, it’s all cool. I read somewhere in a travel book that showing shoulders is inappropriate, so I was pleasantly surprised when I saw that things here are not at all like that.
- Favourite food in Pune?
Sabudana wada, chaat and South Indian food.
- Favourite place to hang out in Pune?
I like Osho garden, it is very calm and quiet.
- Something you miss about France here?
The rows and rows of chocolates that you find in French supermarkets!
Willem Girond, Event management student
- First impression of Pune?
It’s a student city and the traffic is incredible. Everybody seems to have a bike of their own. So, when I told my new friends I don’t have a bike, they looked at me in shock.
- Something you like most about the city?
I love the young vibe of the city. People love going out here, not necessarily partying, but just going out to grab a bite or something. I like the fact that every neighbourhood has amazing restaurants and cafes to offer.
- Something that you find very funny here?
Super long addresses! You have four lines describing that it’s on xxx road behind xxx shop, etc. I was trying to look for a place that was hosting a dance performance in Aundh. Two addresses cropped up, one of the places on the map was, in reality, permanently closed. And when I asked people for directions to the right one, I got even more confused. I never found the place.
- Challenges that you’ve faced here?
Administration. If you want something done, they’ll tell you to come “tomorrow”. But “tomorrow” may not be the next day, it could be any day. It’s difficult to organize yourself due to this ambiguity.
- A stereotype about India that was proved wrong?
The first question I get asked by my French friends is ‘Have you seen the Taj Mahal?’ There’s so much more to India! Besides that, there aren’t elephants on the road and everybody is not a vegetarian, though people do eat a lot of vegetarian food here.
- Favourite food in Pune?
Ragada pattice and pav bhaji. I also eat South Indian regularly, it’s delicious!
- Favourite place to hang out in Pune?
Hidden Place in Koregaon Park, and Lakshmi Lawns because a lot of great events and concerts take place there.
- Something you miss about France here?
My guitar. I thought of buying a guitar, but then I would have to leave it behind when I went back to France, and that would make me really sad.
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